The sock edit

Dirt and friends present recommendations for your feet.

It was Tony Soprano who famously said, “Every day is a gift. It’s just…does it have to be a pair of socks?” Well Ton’, I’ve got a bone to pick with you. Everybody knows that the older you get, the more exciting a gift of really nice socks becomes. They fall into the perfect middle ground of things that we all use, but that very few of us are willing to spend extra money on.  But we totally should! We walk on our feet almost every day—barring any depressive bed-rotting; the least we can do is give them a little bit of pampering.

Socks also let us subtly tell people about ourselves. For example, this helpful infographic tells you what different lengths of socks mean if you’re a straight guy (knee length = professional athlete) or a gay guy (knee length = slut). The first pair that I loved and wore religiously were gifted to me by my middle school best friend who I was also in love with. They were pink, calf-high, with a pattern of blue and yellow fish. I’m pretty sure they sold them at Target.

Nowadays my tastes are more conservative. I like Hanes X-Temp black crew socks, partly because they’re comfortable enough but mostly because they’re cheap to replace in bulk—my bedroom has a lot of exposed nails. Since I’m not an expert myself, I’ve gathered an assembly of Dirt friends to weigh in. Some of them write about fashion; some of them do not. But any writer knows how important being cozy is to the creative process. Read on for their recommendations.

–Walden Green, Dirt Intern

Avery Trufelman

I feel a little embarrassed that I already recommended this to Dirt, but I adore these socks from Sally Fox. They're sort of a miracle. They're undyed—this is natural 100% cotton. It's just that this cotton has been genetically bred, over generations, to be shades of red and green and brown. Sally Fox, the plant geneticist who grows this cotton, is a bit of an icon in the sustainability world. Cotton used to come in all kinds of colors before the industrial revolution compelled us to cultivate only white cotton. Sally is more or less single handedly bringing colorful cotton back to the market. The colors of the socks get richer and deeper the more you wear them. 

But if you'd like socks in different colors, I love the socks by Golf le Fleur, Tyler The Creator's company. They're so subtly stylish and comfortable, they inspire me to pair them with some loafers or something befitting of The Creator himself. 

Magdalene Taylor

There's a certain calculus most of us employ in choosing when to wear our favorite items. What does the rest of our week look like? How's the weather? Should I wear this cute top today while running errands or save it for getting drinks with a friend later in the week? I apply this pondering most frequently to my Darn Tough socks. They are wool, made in Vermont (GOD BLESS NEW ENGLAND) and have a lifetime guarantee. Should they develop a hole or somehow fray, the brand will replace the sock for free. I only own two pairs: one, an everyday crew sock that is no longer carried on the site and the other a no-show running sock. Both are described as lightweight but that term means something entirely different when we're talking about wool. They are among some of the thickest socks I own, and yet remain comfortable in all temperatures. I most often save the crew sock for nights out when I intend to wear heeled boots. I really ought to buy more, but they are $20+ a pair. I can technically afford to own more for such a quality product that will last me forever, yet I fear if I had more I wouldn't appreciate them as much and I'd lose one. Or maybe I just don't respect myself enough.

Meanwhile, I own probably twenty pairs of white Hanes crew socks, the kind with the gray toe and heel. They are perfectly comfortable, not too thin and cheap enough that they can be treated without much concern. I also think there's something really sexy about them. It reminds me of an American Apparel ad.

Savannah Eden Bradley

I’m going to admit something bewildering—for a very long time, I never wore socks. I grew up raised by quasi-hippies who believed it was important to be barefoot, as it was supposed to reset the electrons in your body. I’ve now grown to love them, and I kind of wish I hadn’t, because I’ve wasted a lot of money on a lot of socks. But that also makes me somewhat of a Hosiery Cognoscente. I could write about the nylons in my closet all day (including these 30-denier bow tights from Tezenis), but I am sticking to thigh-highs and below, here, for the sake of time.

I place sock-wearing into two categories: Outside Socks vs. Inside Socks. Outside Socks, obviously, are socks you want other people to see. These are going to be ruffled, appliquéd, leg-warmer’d; they may be itchy or downright irritating to the touch, but they’ll look good in the club. Inside Socks are socks you might want to keep to yourself—maybe they’re comfy but drab, maybe they’re poxed with Hanna-Barbera characters, maybe your Great Aunt Susan got them for you for Christmas (see my last point). Outside Socks can become Inside Socks if you want to dress up for no reason or if you’re too drunk from a night out. Inside Socks, however, can never become Outside Socks. Heed my words.

FOR OUTSIDE SOCKS: I think Free People is doing some cool things with hosiery right now, including stocking a brand I love called High Heel Jungle. Terrible name! Good brand. I’ve been wearing these Gunmetal Knee-High lace socks throughout the winter, and they’re somewhat of an optical illusion — they can make otherwise mediocre outfits look much more put together. The same goes for their Ring A Rosie Tall Socks, which peek out great from a pair of mid-calf boots. I very much enjoy a sock that can transcend a ribbed-knit or a lettuce-trim welt and do something weird. It’s the whole reason why I also like wearing these tulle-ruffle leg warmers. Socks can (and frankly should) be a dimension of your personal style, like anything else. With that in mind, I will lastly rec these very sexy Gatta thigh-highs. Wear them everywhere. 

FOR INSIDE SOCKS: Now we’re getting to the good stuff. The two pairs I live in at home are these little rabbit ankle socks from Tabbis (who also make the most insane pairs of William Morris-inspired nylons), and these white-knit angora wool socks made by a seamstress in Zaporizhzhia named Lili. I got them as a gift a few holidays ago and I may shed real tears whenever I have to get a new pair. These are the softest things I have ever put on my feet. I would never deign to wear them outside; I probably treat these socks better than I do most of my jewelry. When I am President (2052) everyone will receive a pair of these as an Inauguration gift.

Jocelyn Silver

The Pope buys his socks at Gammarelli, a Roman shop specializing in ecclesiastical garb that's been open since 1798. Currently run by the sixth generation of Gammarellis, the store is located just down the street from the Pantheon, framed in dark wood with papal robes and capes in the window. They sell caps, capes, and jewelry for priests—but the main attraction, for godless people like myself, is the socks.

Gammarelli's cotton lisle socks, which I purchased in shades of crimson (for cardinals) and plum (for bishops), are the lightest, softest socks I've ever worn. They're knit in Italy from 100% Egyptian cotton, with elegant woven stripes. Seeing them peep out under a suit gives me a real thrill. They also come in silk and merino wool, and they are all beautiful. They have ignited a passion for socks I did not know I possessed. I do not put them in the dryer like my clumps of Hanes. 

The cotton socks themselves aren't cheap, but I think they are worth it—you can buy a pair online for $26 from the only authorized Gammarelli retailer I could find, based in France (shipping to the US will tack on about seven bucks). But the best way to do it is in person, with an Italian peering over his glasses at you and letting you touch the lustrous hosieries. I asked my dad if he wanted a pair and he said he had too many socks already, and he was wrong, so wrong!

Becky Miller

A funky sock, preferably from a museum gift shop or Happy Socks, hugs my ankles nearly five days a week. I am drawn to the succinct message of foolishness sent by the funky sock, and to the joyous Spencer Shay referentiality I feel when I hike up a pant leg to show them off. I’m not just talking about a Mondrian-inspired geometric pattern, either—I want a pattern so trippy, so ugly, that they outdo the Scooby Doo ski compression numbers I fell in love with one wintry day at REI. Tall and perplexing, those puppies land squarely within my wheelhouse. 

On the straight and narrow side of things, I feel deep gratitude for all that MUJI offers the sock world. The Right Angle Pile Short Socks are a practical, medium-weight choice that will effortlessly peek out from the top of your high-top Converse, Hanes-ish and solid. MUJI’s finest contribution, however, can be found in the Right Angle Excess Yarn 3 Pair, a real bang for your buck package which comes in an exciting range of heathered, bright colors and is made from excess materials. A friend of mine who is “into color” says that neons are polarizing, but I find the strong shades of these socks approachable and appealing. If you want to be insane, MUJI also sells toe socks in four colors, deemed a “husband’s favorite” by one brave reviewer. 

Nora Taylor

Oh, buddy. As someone who is always cold this conversation is near and dear to my heart. I’m also wildly flat-footed—one of my many podiatrists said “Oh hey Pancake foot”! when he walked in and saw me—so I am always on the hunt for socks that can withstand the weird ways in which I put pressure on them. My friend and all-things-outdoor guide, Simone Martin-Newberry, put me on to Darn Tough socks when we were in Seattle (I know) this summer. I am now a full-on proselytizing convert of their hiking socks. They’re not particularly sexy, or even ironically good looking, they’re just sturdy, warm, and well-made. My feet are flat AND big so I bought the men’s size, full cushion, and they are just the most comfortable socks of my life: almost compression tight with extra reinforcement they keep me blister free. They’re warm as hell but breathable enough to wear in the mild PNW summer. The best part? They offer a lifetime guarantee. 

On the other end of the spectrum, because I contain multitudes and am easily influenced, are the Brother Vellies Cloud Socks. Perfect for when I’m home but want to feel somewhat put together, they’re just very good looking socks! I have a pair that I bought in the early pandemic that have one tiny hole but they’re still trucking (not as cute as a fresh pair, obviously). I also bring them with me whenever I travel; I hate putting my bare feet on hotel floors and these are much easier to pack than slippers and somehow make me feel less insane about that particular complex. 

Ava Williams

Socks have had a bad reputation for quite some time. 

They are the dreaded present during the holiday season. In darker times we’ve hung them on our dorm room door knobs, and cut holes in them to secure our hair at the very top of our heads. We have wept at the sight of them. We even went as far as to make the no-show sock, banishing it beneath our sneakers forever. To many, socks are a tool to make life slightly more comfortable. What if we saw it as an opportunity to flex one’s whimsy?

See it from the bigger picture: you’re getting ready and you’re slipping on your usual jeans and a sweater. You’re feeling the winter slump. You’ve now, officially, worn a different variation of the same outfit since the New Year. It’s all a bit repetitive, and a little too grown up to throw on the same blue sweater. In the mirror, the first words that come to your mind when you see yourself are bland and boring. You’re losing the aura of cool that usually surrounds you. 

It would be easy, really, albeit more expensive to buy a new sweater. To switch out one thing for another, but perhaps the answer is not so far away. Perhaps it’s in the underwear drawer—a sock. Precisely, or just nearly, the same bland blue. What is there to lose? A sock, maybe, but chic is forever. 

Fashion doesn’t end at the knee. The underdog of any wardrobe remains a colorful sock. Whenever someone asks how to make their outfits a little less boring, I suggest dipping their toes in (literally) to the world of bright and bold footwear.

The best and brightest colors, socks that have me begging for laundry day or slipping into clogs for maximum sock-show-time, are normally at Uniqlo or Comme Si. If you’re a hypochondriac such as myself, you can find endless shades of compression socks beyond your wildest dreams on Amazon. 

Paul Dalla Rosa

Socks are a serious topic. Any item that touches on the erotic is. I believe the sluttiest thing a man can wear are white crew socks. Use sparingly.

Day to day: black Calvin Klein dress socks. If color: something dark, Paul Smith maroon. You can go as far as mustard, though I wouldn’t. Light patterns. 

Ankle socks are not ideal. Slip socks are a no. You don’t need designer, but you do need a natural material. Be skeptical of the term "moisture wicking." Moisture wicking is not a psyop but is perhaps adjacent. If broke say fuck it and buy Uniqlo. Never, and I really mean never, wear novelty, and never something someone could describe as “fun.” 

PLAYBACK

Snippets of streaming news — and what we’re streaming.

• How To Dress Well’s music video for “New Confusion” (YouTube)

• South Korea’s biggest media companies are cutting back (Bloomberg)

• The Past is Still Alive by Hurray For The Riff Raff (Spotify)

• Dean Kissick and Sean Thor Conroe talk about Houellebecq for two hours (YouTube)

• Shōgun is already getting Game of Thrones comparisons (Variety)

• Evian Christ: Lord Of The Trance (Documentary) (YouTube)

MIXTAPE

Good links from the Dirtyverse.

• The Rhode phone case is like the DUNE 2 popcorn bucket for women (Puck)

• The Fence goes looking for Paul Mescal in the pub (likely place for him to be)

• Skating and sports are cozier than ever. How did that happen? (Quarter Snacks)

• “The babygirl, elegantly inert and slow, never had to run outside of the context of a freewheeling and uninterrupted playtime.” (Princess Babygirl)

• Denny Balmaceda has been menswear blogging since 2008 (Sprezza)

• Why is Sebald so popular in Latin America? (Southwest Review)

• Remember My Decision for One Day, Natalie Shapero (The American Poetry Review)

• Never ask a Salesforce employee what Salesforce does or what the heck Marc Benioff is doing in Hawaii (NPR)

• Helen Rouner on W. H. Auden and faith (Commonweal)

• Has the sun set on the one-handed backhand? (Racquet)

• “I wanted the first time I experienced and fully came to know the Mediterranean to be in my country. I didn’t know if the day would ever come; I knew that it might not come. But I also knew, on a cellular level, that I had to wait—and to wait for Jaffa, specifically.” (The Baffler)

• Mushroom leather makes a low-key mass-market debut (FUTUREVVORLD)

• “The experience of IVF for the person who isn’t actually doing it is hardly a firsthand experience at all…Happy to tell you about the cups though.” (GQ)  

• The deep dive on Khloé Kardashian’s pantry you didn’t know you needed (Dilettante Army)

OUR MARCH PLAYLIST